Making Gradient Blends in Clay

If you do much claying you may well have tried your hand at Skinner blends. And you may have ended up with the result Carol Simmon mentions on the Skinner side of the diagram above: your blend will have, mostly, one colour with only a small amount of “gradient”. I tweak this on auto pilot, these days, by adding a little more of the lighter colour to smooth my blend out, particularly if my lighter colour isn’t white. At one point I did a lot of colour mixing in a linear fashion and realized why my mixes did this blocky, short gradient but Carol explains it much more elegantly in her post.

The details of the post are fairly technical but if you try a few mixes with an altered blend layout you will get a better gradient for your work. On the rest of Carol’s site you can see some of her truly fabulous cane work where the colours absolutely glow.

If you’ve ever spent hours sculpting the perfect polymer clay earrings only to have the posts pop off, you’ll know the heartbreak of choosing the wrong glue. Polymer clay doesn’t play nicely with every adhesive, and what works for paper or wood can end up brittle, tacky, or just plain useless on clay.

After twenty years of crafting with polymer clay—jewelry, buttons, magnets, and more—I’ve tested my fair share of glues. Below is a no-fuss guide to the best glues for polymer clay, when to use them, and a few tricks that will save you from sticky disasters.

Do You Really Need Glue for Polymer Clay?

Here’s the secret: clay itself bonds better to clay than any glue can. So, if you can bake pieces together, that’s always the strongest option. But for jewelry findings, mixed-media projects, or attaching polymer clay to metal, glass, or ceramics—yes, glue becomes your best friend.

The Best Glues for Polymer Clay

1. Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)

Best for: Quick fixes, small attachments like jewelry posts or jump rings.
Pros: Dries in seconds, clear finish.
Cons: Brittle over time, not ideal for stress points.
Tip: Use a tiny drop. Too much will bloom white residue onto your clay.

2. E6000

Best for: Heavy-duty bonds, especially clay to metal (think bails, barrettes, and keychains).
Pros: Industrial strength, flexible once cured.
Cons: Strong fumes, needs 24 hours to fully cure.
Tip: Work in a ventilated space and clamp your piece while drying.

3. Two-Part Epoxy

Best for: Jewelry and repairs that need to last a lifetime.
Pros: Rock-solid bond, water-resistant.
Cons: Messy to mix, limited working time.
Tip: Mix on a scrap surface and apply with a toothpick for precision.

4. Polymer Clay–Friendly Liquid Clay (Like Sculpey Bake & Bond)

Best for: Attaching raw clay to baked clay before re-baking.
Pros: Fuses clay layers when baked, invisible bond.
Cons: Won’t work as a cold glue. Needs baking.
Tip: Great for mosaics or adding small details that need extra security.

5. PVA or White Craft Glue

Best for: Porous surfaces like paper, cardboard, or fabric accents.
Pros: Cheap, easy to find.
Cons: Weak bond on non-porous surfaces.
Tip: Use only for mixed-media projects where polymer clay is decorative, not structural.

Common Gluing Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

Using too much glue: More isn’t stronger. A thin layer bonds better.
Not roughing up surfaces: Lightly sand shiny metal or glass so glue has something to grip.
Skipping the clean-up: Oils from your fingers weaken adhesion—wipe surfaces with rubbing alcohol first.
Expecting miracles: Some things just won’t bond forever. Reinforce with wire, eye pins, or bake-in hardware whenever possible.

My Go-To Recommendation

If you’re attaching metal jewelry findings, go for two-part epoxy or E6000. For clay-to-clay details, stick with liquid polymer clay and rebake. Super glue? Only for quick fixes when I’m too impatient (we’ve all been there).

Choosing the right glue for polymer clay isn’t just about brand—it’s about matching the adhesive to the project. Once you understand when to use each type, your clay creations will hold up beautifully for years.

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