Polymer Clay

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Clay Studio Series – YouTube Video Review: What type of clay should I use?

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What Type of Clay Should I Use? Comparing Three Stoneware Bodies

If there’s one question that potters—especially beginners—ask over and over again, it’s this: “What type of clay should I use?” With so many options available, from smooth white bodies to gritty, speckled stonewares, the choice can feel overwhelming. In this Clay Studio Series feature, we’re reviewing a video that takes the guesswork out by throwing, trimming, and comparing three distinct stoneware clays side by side.

Why This Video Stands Out

Instead of just talking about clay in theory, the potter works directly with three clay bodies and shows the differences in real time. You can see how each clay reacts on the wheel, how it trims when leather-hard, and what kinds of issues may arise depending on the body you choose. This hands-on comparison makes it far easier to understand than simply reading product labels.

The video also tackles a common curiosity: the pink-toned ES80 stoneware, often admired for its warm coloring. The creator points out that this clay is manufactured for reduction firing and won’t give the same results in oxidation, a detail that often gets overlooked by beginners.

Key Lessons for Beginners

  • Not All Clay is Equal: Some clay bodies are far more forgiving for new potters, while others require more experience to manage. 
  • Know Your Firing Method: Certain clays, like ES80, are formulated specifically for reduction kilns. Using them in an electric oxidation kiln may leave you disappointed. 
  • Texture & Plasticity Matter: Smooth clays can be easier to throw but may slump when trimming. Grittier bodies hold structure but can be harder on your hands. 
  • There’s No Single “Best” Clay: Each clay has its pros and cons — the trick is matching your choice to your skill level and the project you have in mind. 

Why We Recommend Watching

For beginners, choosing the right clay can mean the difference between frustration and success. This video demystifies the process by giving a clear visual comparison of three popular stoneware options. By the end, you’ll have a better idea of what qualities to look for in a clay body and which ones might fit your needs best.

For intermediate and advanced potters, the insights are still valuable. Even if you’ve been working with one clay for years, seeing how others handle could inspire you to experiment with something new.

This review proves that clay choice is less about finding a universal “best” and more about learning what works for you. Whether you want smooth, easy-to-handle clay for your first mugs or a robust, grogged body for sculptural pieces, this video is a fantastic guide to help you make a confident decision.

Watch the full video here: What Type of Clay Should I Use?

 

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DIY Leaf Imprint Pottery Soap Dish – Green Glazed Botanical Design

If you’ve ever admired the way nature leaves its mark on clay, this project is going to steal your heart. Today, we’re making a leaf imprint pottery soap dish that’s not only functional but also brings a touch of the garden into your home. With its glossy green glaze, this little tray feels like it was plucked straight from nature itself—fresh, earthy, and timeless.

A soap dish is one of those projects that’s perfect for beginners and seasoned potters alike. It’s small, manageable, and endlessly customizable. Whether you use it in the bathroom, kitchen, or gift it to a friend, this handmade dish will be admired every single day.

Why Leaf Imprints Work So Beautifully in Clay

Leaves have a natural design that’s practically made for pottery. Their veins and outlines press into clay with surprising detail, creating delicate textures that remain visible even after glazing.

For this project, you can use almost any leaf from your garden, but avoid ones that are too thick or fleshy (succulent leaves, for example, don’t press well). Instead, go for herbs, ferns, or tree leaves—something with strong vein definition.

When glazed in a green finish, the leaf impression pops even more, giving your soap dish that rustic-yet-polished botanical look.

Materials You’ll Need

  • Clay slab (pottery clay for kiln firing, or air-dry clay if you want a decorative-only version) 
  • Fresh leaf with strong veins (washed and patted dry) 
  • Rolling pin or clay roller 
  • Canvas or burlap surface (to roll clay on without sticking) 
  • Knife or clay cutter 
  • Sponge and bowl of water (for smoothing) 
  • Wooden dowel or tool for drainage holes 
  • Small clay balls (for footers) 
  • Underglaze wash (optional, for highlighting the veins) 

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Roll Out Your Clay

Start with a lump of clay about the size of your fist. Place it on a canvas-covered surface and roll it out into a slab about 1 cm thick. Cut into a rectangle or oval—soap dish shapes work best when they’re simple and practical.

Step 2: Press the Leaf

Lay your chosen leaf face down on the clay slab. Using the rolling pin, gently but firmly press it into the clay, making sure every vein makes contact. Peel it away carefully to reveal the imprint. This is the moment the magic happens—you’ll see every little detail captured.

Step 3: Add Drainage Holes

To keep soap dry, poke 2–3 holes in the center of your slab using a dowel, straw, or any small round tool. These will let excess water escape.

Step 4: Shape the Dish

Lift the slab and place it over a small curved mold or the back of a shallow bowl to give it a gentle dish-like curve. Smooth the edges with a damp sponge.

Step 5: Attach the Footers

Roll three or four small clay balls and attach them to the base of your dish using score-and-slip. These footers give your soap dish stability and a more professional finish.

Step 6: Dry and Fire

For kiln pottery clay:

  • Let the dish dry completely to bone dry. 
  • Bisque fire in the kiln. 
  • Brush a thin dark underglaze or oxide wash into the leaf veins and wipe away excess—this step enhances the detail. 
  • Apply a coat of green glaze over the entire dish. 
  • Glaze fire for a glossy, waterproof finish. 

For air-dry clay (decorative only):

  • Let the dish dry for 24–48 hours, flipping occasionally. 
  • Paint the leaf imprint with green acrylic paint or a watercolor wash effect. 

Variation Ideas

  • Different Leaves: Try ferns for a delicate design, or maple leaves for bold autumn vibes. 
  • Multiple Colors: Instead of all-over green, use a wash of black in the veins before glazing green on top. This gives incredible depth. 
  • Rustic Finish: Roll your clay slab on burlap first to add subtle texture behind the leaf imprint. 

This DIY Leaf Imprint Soap Dish is proof that the simplest natural elements can make the most striking designs. The glossy green glaze highlights the leaf’s details beautifully, making the finished piece look both handmade and timeless.

Whether you keep it by your sink, tuck it into a gift basket with handmade soap, or create a set to sell at markets, this little project has endless charm. It’s the kind of craft that reminds us how much beauty is right outside our door—in every leaf, waiting to be pressed into clay.