Polymer Clay

Fimo and clay tips and tutorials

Glues and Polymer Clay

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I’m currently building up inventory for fall shows which means, at least somewhat, I’m using glues here and there. And glue and polymer clay is a pain. Some glues just don’t work. For example, I’ve had embarrassing failures with hot glue in the distant past. Sometimes my fall back glue (E6000 on cleaned surfaces) just doesn’t work one apiece in a batch of dozens.

Ginger from the Blue Bottle Tree goes over her notes, compiled from others, in her post here and they seem to reflect what I’ve found as well. It can be basically summarized as: if possible, join clay to clay with liquid clay and a good baking. Join other sturdy items to clay by baking them INTO the clay if possible – I make pins this way – or using the strongest glue you can get.

Another thing I found out was that CA or cyanoacrylate glues (superglues) make a great polish for polymer clay. In fact, it’s a better polish than glue unless you’re doing just small repairs or additions. I use CA or Gorilla Glue to fix tiny cracks since they either glue instantly or fill space as they glue. I use E6000 or Goop, on alcohol cleaned surfaces for some pieces that won’t be handled too much. And I’m working on changing more of my work to clay and mechanical hold rather than depending on glues.

What kind of glue do you prefer to use on your projects? Any horrifying failures or really great glue tricks?

Comments

  1. I, too, have a love – hate relationship with glues! Everyone swears by E6000 but I don’t! I love a quick grab glue that dries quick and clear for my craft projects. I discovered DAP RapidFuse Multi-Purpose Adhesive that’s perfect for most of my bonding needs – except fabrics! My go-to fabric glue for that is Fabri-Tac – it’s the best!

  2. one of the top clayers recommended J.B KwickWeld and it is undoubtedly strong and reliable on polymer clay. It is no longer available in the UK and the UK equivalent, equally as reliable is called ‘Power Maxed Epoxy Speed Bond

  3. I find that Superglue works best on pc to pc, but only if its a smooth flat surface. I also use it to fix metal jewellery findings, such as brooch-backs, or magnets. to pc. My other favourite glue is Weldbond, made in Canada. It is similar to PVA, dries fast and clear, and is very strong, and waterproof. Much better than epoxies.

Have you read?

DIY Sushi Bowls and Ceramic Chopsticks with Koi Wave Pottery Transfer Paper

If you’ve ever wanted to bring a touch of Japanese artistry to your tableware, this project is the perfect place to start. Using koi wave pottery transfer paper, you can transform plain clay pieces into elegant sushi bowls and matching ceramic chopsticks—handmade, functional, and beautiful.

This beginner-friendly guide will show you how to apply ceramic transfer sheets to create a set that looks store-bought but carries the warmth of handmade craftsmanship.

Materials You’ll Need

  • White stoneware or porcelain clay (cone 5–6 recommended) 
  • Koi wave ceramic pottery transfer paper (as shown above) 
  • Rolling pin or slab roller 
  • Bowl molds (small curved molds or slump molds for sushi bowls) 
  • Wooden chopstick dowels or ceramic chopstick molds 
  • Scissors 
  • Sponge or damp cloth 
  • Rib tool or rubber kidney 
  • Clear glaze 
  • Kiln

Step 1: Prepare Your Clay

  1. For the bowls – Roll out clay slabs about ¼ inch thick. Drape over a bowl mold or press into a slump mold to create your sushi bowl shape. Smooth edges with a damp sponge. 
  2. For the chopsticks – Roll clay into long, even strips (or press into chopstick molds if you have them). Aim for a slim, uniform thickness so they feel comfortable to hold. 

Let all pieces firm up to leather-hard stage—firm but still damp enough to accept transfers.

Step 2: Cut Out the Transfer Designs

Trim sections of the koi wave transfer paper to fit your pieces. For bowls, you can cut circular panels or strips depending on whether you want the design inside, outside, or both. For chopsticks, cut narrow strips of transfer paper that can wrap around each stick.

Tip: Think about placement—the flowing wave design looks especially striking when it wraps around curved surfaces.

Step 3: Apply the Transfer Paper

  1. Place the transfer sheet design-side down on the leather-hard clay. 
  2. Lightly dampen the back of the paper with a sponge until it darkens and sticks. 
  3. Smooth gently with a rib tool to ensure full contact. 
  4. Carefully peel back the paper to reveal the koi wave design. 

Repeat until all bowls and chopsticks are decorated.

Step 4: Dry and Bisque Fire

Allow all pieces to dry completely. Bisque fire according to your clay’s temperature guidelines (usually cone 04 for bisque). This firing will lock in the koi wave design.

Step 5: Glaze and Final Fire

Brush or dip in a clear glaze to seal the transfers, bringing out the rich blue detail while keeping the white clay background crisp. Fire to your glaze cone temperature (typically cone 5–6).

The Finished Set

You’ll have a handmade sushi set featuring:

  • Mini sushi bowls – perfect for soy sauce, dipping, or small side dishes. 
  • Matching ceramic chopsticks – elegant and reusable, finished with koi wave patterns. 

Tips

  • Keep chopsticks uniform in thickness so they balance well in use. 
  • Test the transfer on a scrap piece first to gauge how much water is needed. 
  • Try mixing placement—inside bowl only vs. outside vs. full wrap—for variety. 
  • Consider making a full set: 4 bowls + 4 pairs of chopsticks for a complete handmade sushi dining experience. 

This koi wave pattern brings both serenity and elegance to your handmade ceramics. The deep blue waves paired with koi fish designs make each piece feel timeless—perfect for special meals, gifting, or even selling as artisan tableware.

Creating your own sushi set allows you to blend functionality with artistry—every bite of sushi becomes part of a beautiful, handmade ritual.