Polymer Clay

Fimo and clay tips and tutorials

A Crash Course in Polymer Clay

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Isabel Krueger rounded up some of the good notes and (sourced them even) and popped them into a handy polymer clay basics document.

You should have a peek and bookmark it.

Everyone always has slightly different takes on the basics and the variety out there actually helps each clayer pick their way through to what works best for them.

Check out this book on how to make polymer clay eyes and figures

Comments

  1. I want to make embroidered poly pendants amd just purchased Sculpy clay. I’m a newbie and didn”t know the fifference in the clays. My question is can I mix Fimo or Kato with the Sculpy or do the ice water dunk to strengthen my clay? I don’t want to throw the Sculpy away but I don’t want my pendants to fall apart either. I need some suggestions.

  2. You can mix Premo and Sculpey 3 with each other for added strength. These two clays are made to bake at the same temperature and made by the same folks. Bake at the Premo time and temperature for the best strength. I do this often. Fimo and Kato have different baking temperatures so it gets a little weirder. I do bake Fimo with my Premo occasionally, anyways, and it works fine. I haven’t tried it with Kato though.

    However, unless you have those other clays on hand… if you only have Sculpey 3 right now, jump right in. Avoid making pieces that have delicate sticking out parts. Items that are solid with only low height details won’t be easily breakable. Make sure you bake for at least as long and hot as the directions and do consider going longer for added strength.

    Ice water dunking won’t strengthen your pieces. The most I’ve found it does is more quickly clarifies translucent pieces or will seal small cracks as it shocks the hot clay. The translucent will clarify the same as it cools though so that’s just an impatience thing. The best strengthener is curing properly and using the better quality clays.

  3. I’m interested in reading this document but the link doesn’t work. Can it be updated or emailed?

    Thanks!

Have you read?

DIY Sushi Bowls and Ceramic Chopsticks with Koi Wave Pottery Transfer Paper

If you’ve ever wanted to bring a touch of Japanese artistry to your tableware, this project is the perfect place to start. Using koi wave pottery transfer paper, you can transform plain clay pieces into elegant sushi bowls and matching ceramic chopsticks—handmade, functional, and beautiful.

This beginner-friendly guide will show you how to apply ceramic transfer sheets to create a set that looks store-bought but carries the warmth of handmade craftsmanship.

Materials You’ll Need

  • White stoneware or porcelain clay (cone 5–6 recommended) 
  • Koi wave ceramic pottery transfer paper (as shown above) 
  • Rolling pin or slab roller 
  • Bowl molds (small curved molds or slump molds for sushi bowls) 
  • Wooden chopstick dowels or ceramic chopstick molds 
  • Scissors 
  • Sponge or damp cloth 
  • Rib tool or rubber kidney 
  • Clear glaze 
  • Kiln

Step 1: Prepare Your Clay

  1. For the bowls – Roll out clay slabs about ¼ inch thick. Drape over a bowl mold or press into a slump mold to create your sushi bowl shape. Smooth edges with a damp sponge. 
  2. For the chopsticks – Roll clay into long, even strips (or press into chopstick molds if you have them). Aim for a slim, uniform thickness so they feel comfortable to hold. 

Let all pieces firm up to leather-hard stage—firm but still damp enough to accept transfers.

Step 2: Cut Out the Transfer Designs

Trim sections of the koi wave transfer paper to fit your pieces. For bowls, you can cut circular panels or strips depending on whether you want the design inside, outside, or both. For chopsticks, cut narrow strips of transfer paper that can wrap around each stick.

Tip: Think about placement—the flowing wave design looks especially striking when it wraps around curved surfaces.

Step 3: Apply the Transfer Paper

  1. Place the transfer sheet design-side down on the leather-hard clay. 
  2. Lightly dampen the back of the paper with a sponge until it darkens and sticks. 
  3. Smooth gently with a rib tool to ensure full contact. 
  4. Carefully peel back the paper to reveal the koi wave design. 

Repeat until all bowls and chopsticks are decorated.

Step 4: Dry and Bisque Fire

Allow all pieces to dry completely. Bisque fire according to your clay’s temperature guidelines (usually cone 04 for bisque). This firing will lock in the koi wave design.

Step 5: Glaze and Final Fire

Brush or dip in a clear glaze to seal the transfers, bringing out the rich blue detail while keeping the white clay background crisp. Fire to your glaze cone temperature (typically cone 5–6).

The Finished Set

You’ll have a handmade sushi set featuring:

  • Mini sushi bowls – perfect for soy sauce, dipping, or small side dishes. 
  • Matching ceramic chopsticks – elegant and reusable, finished with koi wave patterns. 

Tips

  • Keep chopsticks uniform in thickness so they balance well in use. 
  • Test the transfer on a scrap piece first to gauge how much water is needed. 
  • Try mixing placement—inside bowl only vs. outside vs. full wrap—for variety. 
  • Consider making a full set: 4 bowls + 4 pairs of chopsticks for a complete handmade sushi dining experience. 

This koi wave pattern brings both serenity and elegance to your handmade ceramics. The deep blue waves paired with koi fish designs make each piece feel timeless—perfect for special meals, gifting, or even selling as artisan tableware.

Creating your own sushi set allows you to blend functionality with artistry—every bite of sushi becomes part of a beautiful, handmade ritual.