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DIY How To Make Your Own Silicone Molds

August 31, 2015 by Elaine Robitaille

Druck

In polymer clay, molds and textures are fabulous tools to have. Some of us (ahem, me) spend a lot of time and money collecting different clay molds to use on our work.

Barbara, from Buntwerkstatt, shares a tutorial for making silicone molds using hardware store silicone and talcum powder.

In the tutorial, she comments this should be done outside because the silicone will stink until it’s cured. I also advise doing this with unscented powder rather than baby powder.  This method can use a lot of talcum powder and it smells for ages.

You might want to do a test nub of this to see how long YOUR mix will take to set up. Either do a small glob or a very small mold to test the process. Then you’ll be more confident when you go to mold and cast your final object.

Check out our own tutorial for making silicone molds here.

And here is my own version of the silicon one too.

Making your own molds for clay and crafts is a fun and easy way to create customized shapes and designs. One of the best materials to use for making molds is silicon, as it is flexible, durable, and easy to work with. Here’s a simple tutorial on how to make your own molds using silicon:

  1. Choose your mold shape: The first step is to decide on the shape of your mold. You can use just about any object as a mold, as long as it is small enough to fit in your silicon. Some ideas might include a toy, a small figurine, a seashell, or a coin.
  2. Prepare your object: Before you begin, make sure your object is clean and dry. If it is particularly smooth or shiny, you may want to rough it up a bit to help the silicon stick to it.
  3. Mix your silicon: Follow the instructions on your silicon package to mix the correct amount of silicon. Be sure to mix it thoroughly, as any lumps or bumps will show up in your finished mold.
  4. Pour the silicon: Carefully pour the mixed silicon over your object, making sure to cover it completely. You may want to use a small spatula or tool to help smooth out the surface of the silicon.
  5. Let the silicon cure: Allow the silicon to cure according to the instructions on the package. This will usually take several hours, or even overnight.
  6. Remove the mold: Once the silicon has cured, gently remove your object from the mold. You should now have a flexible silicon mold that you can use to create custom shapes and designs with clay or other materials.

I hope these instructions are helpful as you get started on your own silicon molds! Happy crafting!

 

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Comments

  1. Kathy says

    September 1, 2015 at 11:15 am

    Would Cornstarch work?

  2. Elaine Robitaille says

    September 1, 2015 at 10:36 pm

    When I tried this a few years ago, I used a chalk powder from the garage and it worked fine. You could try cornstarch! My only concern is the fact that it’s organic but I imagine it would “cure” in the silicone.

  3. DeBorah Beatty says

    December 23, 2016 at 3:03 pm

    Could you use the sand free grout powder? I use that to make my own gesso.

  4. Elaine Robitaille says

    December 23, 2016 at 11:24 pm

    Give it a shot. I can’t imagine it would react badly – grout powder is inert. You may have to play with the proportions but you would with the talc as well.

  5. Eunkyoung Yu says

    April 10, 2017 at 3:01 pm

    Hi
    Can I use this mold for soap making? or do I need other type of silicone?

  6. Elaine Robitaille says

    April 10, 2017 at 9:59 pm

    I’d say yes, you can use it for soap making but I’d experiment first before doing a full batch, as I would with any new material.

  7. fiona prothero says

    May 16, 2017 at 5:57 pm

    Great. I’m inspired. Thank you

  8. Myrrh says

    June 5, 2017 at 10:24 am

    Once cured do you think it would hold resin?

  9. Elaine Robitaille says

    June 5, 2017 at 9:10 pm

    Give it a shot with a sample one? It’s not my area of expertise but I’d whip up a dummy mold and a teeny bit of resin and try it.

  10. Dee says

    November 23, 2017 at 11:24 am

    Is this food safe?

  11. Elaine Robitaille says

    November 23, 2017 at 4:12 pm

    I would think not but I’m actually not sure!

  12. Elizabeth J Sonier says

    April 8, 2018 at 12:17 am

    Can the mold be put into the oven once it’s cured?

  13. Elaine Robitaille says

    April 8, 2018 at 9:36 pm

    Hi Elizabeth! I haven’t tried but I would make a dummy blob mold to test first before I did that.

  14. Salman says

    November 1, 2018 at 7:29 pm

    Hi. can i use potasium cabonate inset of powder

  15. Elaine Robitaille says

    November 3, 2018 at 12:13 am

    You could try? Potassium carbonate is less easy to find where I am than talc powder. I’d probably try something like corn starch if I were looking for a substitute.

  16. Lori says

    February 18, 2019 at 2:23 pm

    Hi Elaine – do you know if the molds eventually shrink-up or noticeably shrivel? Thank you!

  17. Elaine Robitaille says

    February 20, 2019 at 5:27 pm

    I haven’t noticed any change in the ones I’ve made with a version of this. They’re about two years old and not heavily used. I did immediately have some dry / didn’t mix great areas where I picked bits of the mold off but no change later.

  18. Malie Beukes says

    March 26, 2019 at 5:03 am

    What is the best way to make a mold of a succulent?

  19. Elaine Robitaille says

    March 26, 2019 at 6:05 pm

    That’s a good question. Anything with over hang you’ll want a really super flexible silicone mold. So you’ll need to do some experimenting to get the right texture. If you’re casting a live succulent (rather than an inanimate object) it may be a challenge!

Have you read?

DIY Clay Flower Frog Tutorial – A Handmade Tool for Arranging Blooms

If you’ve ever struggled to get your flowers to stand just right in a vase, let me introduce you to one of the most charming old-fashioned tools around: the flower frog. Traditionally made from metal or glass, a flower frog is simply a base with holes that keeps stems in place so you can create balanced, natural arrangements without fussing. Today, we’re giving this vintage idea a modern twist by making a clay flower frog with our own hands.

This project is wonderfully simple, yet it creates something you’ll use again and again – especially if you love bringing fresh blooms inside from the garden. It’s also a fantastic beginner-friendly clay project that gives you a chance to practice shaping and smoothing without needing advanced pottery skills.

Materials You’ll Need

  • Pottery clay (stoneware or earthenware works well; you can also use air-dry clay for a decorative-only version)

  • A rolling pin or clay roller

  • A needle tool or skewer

  • A small round cookie cutter or cup for shaping

  • Sponge and water for smoothing

  • Optional: glaze in your favorite color (if kiln-firing) or acrylic paint/sealer for air-dry clay

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Prepare Your Clay

Wedge your clay (fancy potter’s word for kneading out the air bubbles) until smooth. Roll it out to about 1 inch thick – thick enough that your holes won’t weaken the structure.

Step 2: Cut the Base Shape

Using a cookie cutter, cup, or template, cut out a circle or oval about 3–4 inches across. This will form the base of your flower frog. Smooth the edges with a damp sponge.

Step 3: Add the Holes

Use a skewer, chopstick, or needle tool to pierce holes across the surface. Space them evenly but not too close to the edges. Aim for around 6–10 holes, depending on the size of your frog. Make sure the holes go all the way through so stems can slide in easily.

Step 4: Refine and Smooth

Dip your tool in water and smooth around each hole to prevent cracking later. Take your time here—neat holes are what make your frog functional and pretty.

Step 5: Let It Dry

  • For kiln clay: Allow to dry until bone dry, then bisque fire. Apply glaze of choice and fire again.

  • For air-dry clay: Let it cure completely according to the package instructions, usually 24–48 hours.

Step 6: Finish and Seal

  • If you’re kiln-firing, this is where you’ll add that glossy glaze – think celadon green, soft blue, or speckled neutrals.

  • If you’re using air-dry clay, paint with acrylics and add a clear sealer to protect it from water.

Using Your Clay Flower Frog

Place your finished frog at the bottom of a shallow bowl or vase, add water, and start threading flower stems through the holes. The frog will hold them upright and let you create that lush, organic look without fuss. For a more rustic style, leave the clay unglazed (just make sure it’s still sealed if you’ll be adding water).

Variations to Try

  • Mini Frogs: Make smaller versions for teacups or bud vases.

  • Square or Oval Shapes: Who says flower frogs have to be round?

  • Decorative Impressions: Press lace, leaves, or stamps into the clay before making the holes for a bit of texture.

  • Stacked Frogs: Make two thinner discs and stack them together for a taller look.

Why You’ll Love This Project

Not only do you get a handmade, functional tool, but you’re also keeping alive a vintage floral tradition. These little clay flower frogs make beautiful gifts, especially paired with a thrifted vase and a bunch of fresh-picked blooms.

 

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