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DIY How To Make Your Own Silicone Molds

August 31, 2015 by Elaine Robitaille

Druck

In polymer clay, molds and textures are fabulous tools to have. Some of us (ahem, me) spend a lot of time and money collecting different clay molds to use on our work.

Barbara, from Buntwerkstatt, shares a tutorial for making silicone molds using hardware store silicone and talcum powder.

In the tutorial, she comments this should be done outside because the silicone will stink until it’s cured. I also advise doing this with unscented powder rather than baby powder.  This method can use a lot of talcum powder and it smells for ages.

You might want to do a test nub of this to see how long YOUR mix will take to set up. Either do a small glob or a very small mold to test the process. Then you’ll be more confident when you go to mold and cast your final object.

Check out our own tutorial for making silicone molds here.

And here is my own version of the silicon one too.

Making your own molds for clay and crafts is a fun and easy way to create customized shapes and designs. One of the best materials to use for making molds is silicon, as it is flexible, durable, and easy to work with. Here’s a simple tutorial on how to make your own molds using silicon:

  1. Choose your mold shape: The first step is to decide on the shape of your mold. You can use just about any object as a mold, as long as it is small enough to fit in your silicon. Some ideas might include a toy, a small figurine, a seashell, or a coin.
  2. Prepare your object: Before you begin, make sure your object is clean and dry. If it is particularly smooth or shiny, you may want to rough it up a bit to help the silicon stick to it.
  3. Mix your silicon: Follow the instructions on your silicon package to mix the correct amount of silicon. Be sure to mix it thoroughly, as any lumps or bumps will show up in your finished mold.
  4. Pour the silicon: Carefully pour the mixed silicon over your object, making sure to cover it completely. You may want to use a small spatula or tool to help smooth out the surface of the silicon.
  5. Let the silicon cure: Allow the silicon to cure according to the instructions on the package. This will usually take several hours, or even overnight.
  6. Remove the mold: Once the silicon has cured, gently remove your object from the mold. You should now have a flexible silicon mold that you can use to create custom shapes and designs with clay or other materials.

I hope these instructions are helpful as you get started on your own silicon molds! Happy crafting!

 

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Comments

  1. Kathy says

    September 1, 2015 at 11:15 am

    Would Cornstarch work?

  2. Elaine Robitaille says

    September 1, 2015 at 10:36 pm

    When I tried this a few years ago, I used a chalk powder from the garage and it worked fine. You could try cornstarch! My only concern is the fact that it’s organic but I imagine it would “cure” in the silicone.

  3. DeBorah Beatty says

    December 23, 2016 at 3:03 pm

    Could you use the sand free grout powder? I use that to make my own gesso.

  4. Elaine Robitaille says

    December 23, 2016 at 11:24 pm

    Give it a shot. I can’t imagine it would react badly – grout powder is inert. You may have to play with the proportions but you would with the talc as well.

  5. Eunkyoung Yu says

    April 10, 2017 at 3:01 pm

    Hi
    Can I use this mold for soap making? or do I need other type of silicone?

  6. Elaine Robitaille says

    April 10, 2017 at 9:59 pm

    I’d say yes, you can use it for soap making but I’d experiment first before doing a full batch, as I would with any new material.

  7. fiona prothero says

    May 16, 2017 at 5:57 pm

    Great. I’m inspired. Thank you

  8. Myrrh says

    June 5, 2017 at 10:24 am

    Once cured do you think it would hold resin?

  9. Elaine Robitaille says

    June 5, 2017 at 9:10 pm

    Give it a shot with a sample one? It’s not my area of expertise but I’d whip up a dummy mold and a teeny bit of resin and try it.

  10. Dee says

    November 23, 2017 at 11:24 am

    Is this food safe?

  11. Elaine Robitaille says

    November 23, 2017 at 4:12 pm

    I would think not but I’m actually not sure!

  12. Elizabeth J Sonier says

    April 8, 2018 at 12:17 am

    Can the mold be put into the oven once it’s cured?

  13. Elaine Robitaille says

    April 8, 2018 at 9:36 pm

    Hi Elizabeth! I haven’t tried but I would make a dummy blob mold to test first before I did that.

  14. Salman says

    November 1, 2018 at 7:29 pm

    Hi. can i use potasium cabonate inset of powder

  15. Elaine Robitaille says

    November 3, 2018 at 12:13 am

    You could try? Potassium carbonate is less easy to find where I am than talc powder. I’d probably try something like corn starch if I were looking for a substitute.

  16. Lori says

    February 18, 2019 at 2:23 pm

    Hi Elaine – do you know if the molds eventually shrink-up or noticeably shrivel? Thank you!

  17. Elaine Robitaille says

    February 20, 2019 at 5:27 pm

    I haven’t noticed any change in the ones I’ve made with a version of this. They’re about two years old and not heavily used. I did immediately have some dry / didn’t mix great areas where I picked bits of the mold off but no change later.

  18. Malie Beukes says

    March 26, 2019 at 5:03 am

    What is the best way to make a mold of a succulent?

  19. Elaine Robitaille says

    March 26, 2019 at 6:05 pm

    That’s a good question. Anything with over hang you’ll want a really super flexible silicone mold. So you’ll need to do some experimenting to get the right texture. If you’re casting a live succulent (rather than an inanimate object) it may be a challenge!

Have you read?

DIY Metal Clay: How to Make Your Own Silver and Copper Clay at Home

If you’ve ever dreamed of turning powder into precious jewelry with your own two hands, metal clay is pure magic. Imagine taking fine silver or copper powder, mixing it with a binder, shaping it like clay, and then—poof!—after firing, you’re left with solid metal jewelry.

While you can buy ready-made packs of silver clay, they’re pricey. The good news? You can make your own at home, and it’s easier than you think. In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to make homemade silver and copper clay, tips for success, firing methods, and a handful of inspiring project ideas.

What Exactly Is Metal Clay?

Metal clay is a mix of fine metal powder (silver, copper, bronze, even gold), an organic binder, and water. It looks and feels like soft pottery clay, but once it’s dried and fired, the binder burns away and you’re left with solid metal.

Think of it as sculpting in clay with a shiny, wearable reward at the end. Unlike traditional silversmithing, there’s no sawing, soldering, or hammering required—just shape, dry, and fire.

Why Bother Making Your Own?

  • Cost savings: Store-bought silver clay can cost $50–$70 for a tiny 15g pack. Homemade clay is far more affordable, especially for bigger projects.

  • Creative control: You decide the texture, flexibility, and firing strength by adjusting your recipe.

  • Sustainability: Making your own lets you experiment with reclaimed metal powders or even recycled filings.

  • Satisfaction: There’s something deeply rewarding about making the medium itself, not just the jewelry.

Materials and Tools

Here’s your basic shopping list for DIY metal clay:

  • Metal powder: Fine silver, copper, or bronze powder. Look for mesh size 325 or finer for best results.

  • Binder: Options include CMC powder (carboxymethyl cellulose), methylcellulose, or gum tragacanth. These help the clay stick together until firing.

  • Distilled water: Keeps impurities out of your mix.

  • Optional additives:

    • Glycerin for longer working time.

    • Tools: Ceramic or glass mixing bowl, silicone spatula, airtight containers, plastic wrap, and a small kitchen scale.

Safety gear: Wear a mask when working with fine powders and gloves if you have sensitive skin.

Step-by-Step: How to Make DIY Metal Clay

Step 1: Weigh Your Ingredients

A good starting ratio is 90% metal powder and 10% binder by weight. If your clay feels crumbly later, you can adjust by adding more binder.

Step 2: Mix the Dry Ingredients

Combine your powder and binder thoroughly. Sift if needed to break up clumps.

Step 3: Add Water Gradually

Using a dropper or spoon, drizzle in distilled water while stirring. The mixture should come together into a soft dough.

Step 4: Knead and Test

On a non-stick surface, knead the mixture like bread dough until smooth. Press a small ball flat—if it cracks, add more water. If it sticks, dust with a touch more binder.

Step 5: Store Properly

Wrap the clay in cling film and place in an airtight container. Refrigerate if storing for more than a day. Homemade clay dries out faster than store-bought.

Working with DIY Metal Clay

  • Keep it damp: A spritz bottle of distilled water is your best friend.

  • Use release agents: Olive oil, balm, or cornstarch stops clay from sticking to stamps, molds, and tools.

  • Texture play: Press lace, leaves, or rubber stamps into your clay for beautiful natural patterns.

  • Dry thoroughly before firing: Air-dry 24 hours or place on a warming plate until bone-dry.

Firing Homemade Metal Clay

This is where the magic happens—your clay becomes solid metal.

Firing Silver Clay

  • Torch firing: Suitable for small pendants, charms, or earrings. Use a butane torch and heat until glowing orange (approx. 650–800°C). Hold for 2–5 minutes.

  • Kiln firing: Best for larger or thicker pieces. Fire at 800–900°C for 30–60 minutes.

Firing Copper or Bronze Clay

  • Needs a kiln and activated carbon (to prevent oxidation).

  • Place dried pieces in a stainless-steel container, bury in activated carbon, and fire at 900–950°C for 2–3 hours.

Tip: Always fire a test strip first to check shrinkage and strength.

Finishing Your Pieces

After firing, your pieces will look matte and a bit dull. That’s normal! To bring out the shine:

  1. Brush with a brass wire brush.

  2. Burnish with a steel tool for a glossy finish.

  3. Tumble-polish in steel shot for a mirror shine.

Optional: Add patinas (like liver of sulfur) to bring out textures and shadows.

Project Ideas for DIY Metal Clay

Here are a few creative starter projects:

  • Name pendants – Stamp children’s or grandchildren’s names into small silver bars.

  • Nature impressions – Press real leaves, flowers, or lace into clay for organic textures.

  • Fingerprint charms – Perfect keepsakes for new parents or grandparents.

  • Beads and buttons – Shape little rounds for custom jewelry or sewing projects.

  • Earring drops – Roll thin sheets and cut with mini cookie cutters.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

  • Cracking while drying: Clay too dry. Add more water and knead again.

  • Warping: Clay dried unevenly. Always dry pieces flat on a non-stick surface.

  • Weak after firing: Not enough binder or under-fired. Increase temperature slightly next time.

  • Excessive shrinkage: Too much binder or too little powder. Stick to the 90/10 ratio.

Safety Tips for DIY Metal Clay

  • Always wear a dust mask when handling powders.

  • Work in a well-ventilated space.

  • Don’t use kitchen tools for food after mixing clay. Keep them separate.

  • Let fired pieces cool completely before handling.

Where to Buy Supplies

  • Online jewelry suppliers (look for “fine silver powder” or “325 mesh copper powder”).

  • Pottery and ceramic shops (for binders and carbon).

  • Craft stores (some carry small packs of CMC powder).

Making your own silver or copper clay at home is part science experiment, part craft therapy. It saves money, gives you full control over your materials, and opens up a whole new world of jewelry making. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll find yourself experimenting with textures, firing techniques, and even combining metals for unique results.

Metal clay is one of those crafts that bridges the gap between ancient tradition and modern DIY. So grab your powders, roll up your sleeves, and let a little alchemy happen right at your kitchen table.

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