Polymer Clay

Fimo and clay tips and tutorials

Cernit, have you tried it?

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Back when I heard of it last year I immediately wanted to try it. Then I heard the name again when someone was describing the feel of the Studio by Sculpey clay.(Of course you know I heard of it in a forum somewhere) Back to the subject, I bought a pack of it with another order because I wanted to try it. Well, I’ll let you be the judge, after I tell you that it was soft enough out of the pack to condition by hand, really, by HAND ! But the thing it, it wasn’t the sticky, smooshy, doughy, clay we normally put up with. Wait!! That’s not the best part, the BLACK has some kind of mica or really fine glitter, either way I LOVE it. I don’t know if the other colors have it or not, but I plan on finding out 🙂 } Dare I say it ?} It makes me want to give up my Kato !!!!!??????!!!!! Oh no, where’s my couch. I feel faint! Oh, the funny thing is, I have even tried the Studio by Sculpey clay, yet 🙂 Click on the pictures to see them a little better.   

Do a quick GOOGLE on Cernit, a lot of vendors carry it. Here’s a blurb from one vendor

Cernit Polymer clay is soft and easy to work, right out of the package. No other material will give you the translucence you get with Cernit no. 1 and its tensile strength lets you work with the thinnest imaginable pieces. Cernit no. 1 cures to a porcelain-like finish while Cernit Neon-Light is luminescent in bright, day-glo colors and Cernit Glamour colors are pearlescents. Many shades of color available and all able to be mixed to create still other tones.

I will tell you this, it seems to me that the prices are a little higher than the other clays, but, you get what you pay for, as my granny used to say.

http://www.gigagraphica.com/poly/polyclay.html – This is a website that has some more info on it

See ya’ll next time 🙂

Comments

  1. Cernit was probably the third clay brand I worked with and it spoiled me rotten, lol. Like most people probably did, I started with Sculpey III and quickly moved on to Fimo and then Fimo soft. Once I moved to try Cernit however, I never moved on. I suppose I really need to try Kato and the Studio clay but my hands love the feel of Cernit too much. I will say that the standard colors do tend to darken A LOT once baked so most all of those get mixed with white (buy the big block of white, you’ll need it) but other than that I have zero complaints about this polyclay brand. BTW, I also adore the porcelain-like finish. 😀

  2. really? I have a box of cernit and to me its REALLY hard to mold. maybe it’d a different version or something but it hurts my hand and I have a really different opinion!

  3. Hey Sophia! That post is from a few years ago by a previous blogger. I’m with you, I found Cernit to be harder to work with than Premo. I suppose it’s just a matter of what you’re used to!

  4. Cernit cures hard, but still pretty flexible like fimo classic and kato. Cernit is great for thinner more delicate pieces. l tried the translucent, which is like super slimy . l leached it and it has messed up the consistency of the clay so l won’t be doing that again.
    l have another block in blue and that was so easy to condition, shape and use. Like premo l get hairline cracks more easily when curing in beads so for me right now cernit is a mixed bag. The color seriously darkens after curing so that made me a bit anxious about buying more it.

  5. I usually buy Cernit, the only fail is how hard it is, usually red is very hard and black is impossible… i havent come across very gewy squishy sticky ones, i like Fimo but the transparent ones are a bit too soft.

  6. It is an excellent clay for miniatures. I have sculpted some small busts having hights of approx. 2 inches. It keeps even the smallest details (eyes, ears, lips, hair, wrinkles etc.) and you can cut very easily when you have to adjust the face of your bust. I worked for some complicated busts and some times I had to work two weeks for a project and it kept the same quality. One thing very important! I have an improvized oven made by me on my gas burner. This clay is excelent after it is baked. It is shiny a little bit. It seems to have some life inside. Follow the instructions and you will have an excellent bust. I prefer this clay.

  7. I find Cernit to be really hard to work with.
    It takes a long time to condition, and then when you try to roll it it’s still very hard, and it get’s crumbly. I absolutely cannot handle the crumbleness! It just rips apart no matter how many times I tried to. Since it’s so rough, imperfections are hard to smooth out.
    The good side is, that it doesn’t leave fingerprints.
    Overall : I would not recommend Cernit to anyone. I bought 10 packs and now I just don’t know how to get rid of them.

  8. Hi Laura!

    This post was from a little bit ago – I haven’t had the chance to really play with Cernit but I found the same as you: that it was difficult to condition. And I have an easily available difficult to condition clay already!

Have you read?

How to Add Glow-in-the-Dark Pigment to Polymer Clay (Tips, Tricks and Project Ideas)

If you’ve ever wanted your polymer clay earrings or charms to literally light up the night, glow-in-the-dark pigments are the secret ingredient. Adding them to clay isn’t difficult, but there are some tricks to getting the best glow, the brightest finish, and a professional look that actually lasts.

I’ve worked with glow powders and glow clays on plenty of projects—from kids’ Halloween crafts to statement jewelry pieces—and let me tell you: not all glow pigments are created equal. Some glow for hours, others fade after a minute, and how you mix them into your clay makes a huge difference.

Let’s dive into how to use glow pigment with polymer clay, plus a few creative project ideas you’ll want to try.

Choosing the Right Glow Pigment

Not all glow powders are the same. The brightness, glow time, and even color vary depending on the pigment type.

  • Phosphorescent powders: These are the most common. They absorb UV or natural light and release it slowly, creating that glowing effect. Look for strontium aluminate–based powders (they glow longer and brighter than zinc sulfide powders).

  • Color options: Green and aqua are the brightest and longest-lasting. Pinks, purples, and oranges are fun but fade faster.

  • Particle size: Fine powders blend smoothly into clay, while larger particle pigments give a speckled, starry look.

How to Mix Glow Pigment into Polymer Clay

There are two main methods for adding glow pigment to your clay:

1. Mixing Powder into Clay

  • Condition your polymer clay until it’s soft and pliable.

  • Sprinkle a small amount of glow powder into the clay (start with about 1 part pigment to 4 parts clay).

  • Knead and fold until fully blended.

  • For extra brightness, add more pigment—but too much can make your clay crumbly.

2. Dusting or Painting Pigment on the Surface

  • Roll out your clay sheet or shape your earrings.

  • Brush pigment powder onto the surface using a dry brush.

  • For a stronger effect, mix the powder with a clear liquid clay and paint it on.

  • This creates a glowing finish rather than an all-over glow.

Baking Glow-in-the-Dark Polymer Clay

  • Bake according to your clay brand’s instructions (usually 260°F–275°F / 125°C–135°C).

  • The pigment won’t burn out—it’s heat stable.

  • For surface applications, add a thin layer of liquid clay or a sealer before baking to keep powder from rubbing off.

Sealing and Finishing

Once baked and cooled:

  • Sand and buff as usual if the glow pigment is fully mixed in.

  • If the glow pigment is brushed on the surface, apply a thin coat of clear varnish, resin, or UV resin to lock it in.

  • A glossy finish makes the glow appear brighter, while a matte finish gives a softer effect.

Project Ideas for Glow-in-the-Dark Polymer Clay

  1. Glow-in-the-Dark Earrings – Simple studs or hoop charms that charge under sunlight and glow during evening dinners.

  2. Spooky Halloween Jewelry – Bats, pumpkins, and ghosts that shine when the lights go out.

  3. Kids’ Room Stars – Cut star shapes, bake, and glue onto walls or mobiles.

  4. Garden Markers – Clay tags with glow pigment to find your plants after dark.

  5. Nighttime Keychains – Never lose your keys again with a glowing charm.

Tips for the Best Glow

  • Charge your finished pieces under bright sunlight or a UV lamp for the longest glow.

  • Store pigment powders in airtight containers; moisture can ruin them.

  • If you want a subtle effect, mix pigment with translucent clay. For bold neon-like glow, pack in more pigment.

Adding glow pigment to polymer clay is one of those small tricks that turns ordinary jewelry or crafts into conversation starters. Whether you want a subtle shimmer or a full-on “where’s the flashlight?” glow, it’s all about the right pigment, mixing method, and finish.

So go ahead—make your earrings, pendants, or charms shine, literally!