Polymer Clay

Fimo and clay tips and tutorials

Cernit, have you tried it?

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Back when I heard of it last year I immediately wanted to try it. Then I heard the name again when someone was describing the feel of the Studio by Sculpey clay.(Of course you know I heard of it in a forum somewhere) Back to the subject, I bought a pack of it with another order because I wanted to try it. Well, I’ll let you be the judge, after I tell you that it was soft enough out of the pack to condition by hand, really, by HAND ! But the thing it, it wasn’t the sticky, smooshy, doughy, clay we normally put up with. Wait!! That’s not the best part, the BLACK has some kind of mica or really fine glitter, either way I LOVE it. I don’t know if the other colors have it or not, but I plan on finding out 🙂 } Dare I say it ?} It makes me want to give up my Kato !!!!!??????!!!!! Oh no, where’s my couch. I feel faint! Oh, the funny thing is, I have even tried the Studio by Sculpey clay, yet 🙂 Click on the pictures to see them a little better.   

Do a quick GOOGLE on Cernit, a lot of vendors carry it. Here’s a blurb from one vendor

Cernit Polymer clay is soft and easy to work, right out of the package. No other material will give you the translucence you get with Cernit no. 1 and its tensile strength lets you work with the thinnest imaginable pieces. Cernit no. 1 cures to a porcelain-like finish while Cernit Neon-Light is luminescent in bright, day-glo colors and Cernit Glamour colors are pearlescents. Many shades of color available and all able to be mixed to create still other tones.

I will tell you this, it seems to me that the prices are a little higher than the other clays, but, you get what you pay for, as my granny used to say.

http://www.gigagraphica.com/poly/polyclay.html – This is a website that has some more info on it

See ya’ll next time 🙂

Comments

  1. Cernit was probably the third clay brand I worked with and it spoiled me rotten, lol. Like most people probably did, I started with Sculpey III and quickly moved on to Fimo and then Fimo soft. Once I moved to try Cernit however, I never moved on. I suppose I really need to try Kato and the Studio clay but my hands love the feel of Cernit too much. I will say that the standard colors do tend to darken A LOT once baked so most all of those get mixed with white (buy the big block of white, you’ll need it) but other than that I have zero complaints about this polyclay brand. BTW, I also adore the porcelain-like finish. 😀

  2. really? I have a box of cernit and to me its REALLY hard to mold. maybe it’d a different version or something but it hurts my hand and I have a really different opinion!

  3. Hey Sophia! That post is from a few years ago by a previous blogger. I’m with you, I found Cernit to be harder to work with than Premo. I suppose it’s just a matter of what you’re used to!

  4. Cernit cures hard, but still pretty flexible like fimo classic and kato. Cernit is great for thinner more delicate pieces. l tried the translucent, which is like super slimy . l leached it and it has messed up the consistency of the clay so l won’t be doing that again.
    l have another block in blue and that was so easy to condition, shape and use. Like premo l get hairline cracks more easily when curing in beads so for me right now cernit is a mixed bag. The color seriously darkens after curing so that made me a bit anxious about buying more it.

  5. I usually buy Cernit, the only fail is how hard it is, usually red is very hard and black is impossible… i havent come across very gewy squishy sticky ones, i like Fimo but the transparent ones are a bit too soft.

  6. It is an excellent clay for miniatures. I have sculpted some small busts having hights of approx. 2 inches. It keeps even the smallest details (eyes, ears, lips, hair, wrinkles etc.) and you can cut very easily when you have to adjust the face of your bust. I worked for some complicated busts and some times I had to work two weeks for a project and it kept the same quality. One thing very important! I have an improvized oven made by me on my gas burner. This clay is excelent after it is baked. It is shiny a little bit. It seems to have some life inside. Follow the instructions and you will have an excellent bust. I prefer this clay.

  7. I find Cernit to be really hard to work with.
    It takes a long time to condition, and then when you try to roll it it’s still very hard, and it get’s crumbly. I absolutely cannot handle the crumbleness! It just rips apart no matter how many times I tried to. Since it’s so rough, imperfections are hard to smooth out.
    The good side is, that it doesn’t leave fingerprints.
    Overall : I would not recommend Cernit to anyone. I bought 10 packs and now I just don’t know how to get rid of them.

  8. Hi Laura!

    This post was from a little bit ago – I haven’t had the chance to really play with Cernit but I found the same as you: that it was difficult to condition. And I have an easily available difficult to condition clay already!

Have you read?

DIY Metal Clay: How to Make Your Own Silver and Copper Clay at Home

If you’ve ever dreamed of turning powder into precious jewelry with your own two hands, metal clay is pure magic. Imagine taking fine silver or copper powder, mixing it with a binder, shaping it like clay, and then—poof!—after firing, you’re left with solid metal jewelry.

While you can buy ready-made packs of silver clay, they’re pricey. The good news? You can make your own at home, and it’s easier than you think. In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to make homemade silver and copper clay, tips for success, firing methods, and a handful of inspiring project ideas.

What Exactly Is Metal Clay?

Metal clay is a mix of fine metal powder (silver, copper, bronze, even gold), an organic binder, and water. It looks and feels like soft pottery clay, but once it’s dried and fired, the binder burns away and you’re left with solid metal.

Think of it as sculpting in clay with a shiny, wearable reward at the end. Unlike traditional silversmithing, there’s no sawing, soldering, or hammering required—just shape, dry, and fire.

Why Bother Making Your Own?

  • Cost savings: Store-bought silver clay can cost $50–$70 for a tiny 15g pack. Homemade clay is far more affordable, especially for bigger projects.

  • Creative control: You decide the texture, flexibility, and firing strength by adjusting your recipe.

  • Sustainability: Making your own lets you experiment with reclaimed metal powders or even recycled filings.

  • Satisfaction: There’s something deeply rewarding about making the medium itself, not just the jewelry.

Materials and Tools

Here’s your basic shopping list for DIY metal clay:

  • Metal powder: Fine silver, copper, or bronze powder. Look for mesh size 325 or finer for best results.

  • Binder: Options include CMC powder (carboxymethyl cellulose), methylcellulose, or gum tragacanth. These help the clay stick together until firing.

  • Distilled water: Keeps impurities out of your mix.

  • Optional additives:

    • Glycerin for longer working time.

    • Tools: Ceramic or glass mixing bowl, silicone spatula, airtight containers, plastic wrap, and a small kitchen scale.

Safety gear: Wear a mask when working with fine powders and gloves if you have sensitive skin.

Step-by-Step: How to Make DIY Metal Clay

Step 1: Weigh Your Ingredients

A good starting ratio is 90% metal powder and 10% binder by weight. If your clay feels crumbly later, you can adjust by adding more binder.

Step 2: Mix the Dry Ingredients

Combine your powder and binder thoroughly. Sift if needed to break up clumps.

Step 3: Add Water Gradually

Using a dropper or spoon, drizzle in distilled water while stirring. The mixture should come together into a soft dough.

Step 4: Knead and Test

On a non-stick surface, knead the mixture like bread dough until smooth. Press a small ball flat—if it cracks, add more water. If it sticks, dust with a touch more binder.

Step 5: Store Properly

Wrap the clay in cling film and place in an airtight container. Refrigerate if storing for more than a day. Homemade clay dries out faster than store-bought.

Working with DIY Metal Clay

  • Keep it damp: A spritz bottle of distilled water is your best friend.

  • Use release agents: Olive oil, balm, or cornstarch stops clay from sticking to stamps, molds, and tools.

  • Texture play: Press lace, leaves, or rubber stamps into your clay for beautiful natural patterns.

  • Dry thoroughly before firing: Air-dry 24 hours or place on a warming plate until bone-dry.

Firing Homemade Metal Clay

This is where the magic happens—your clay becomes solid metal.

Firing Silver Clay

  • Torch firing: Suitable for small pendants, charms, or earrings. Use a butane torch and heat until glowing orange (approx. 650–800°C). Hold for 2–5 minutes.

  • Kiln firing: Best for larger or thicker pieces. Fire at 800–900°C for 30–60 minutes.

Firing Copper or Bronze Clay

  • Needs a kiln and activated carbon (to prevent oxidation).

  • Place dried pieces in a stainless-steel container, bury in activated carbon, and fire at 900–950°C for 2–3 hours.

Tip: Always fire a test strip first to check shrinkage and strength.

Finishing Your Pieces

After firing, your pieces will look matte and a bit dull. That’s normal! To bring out the shine:

  1. Brush with a brass wire brush.

  2. Burnish with a steel tool for a glossy finish.

  3. Tumble-polish in steel shot for a mirror shine.

Optional: Add patinas (like liver of sulfur) to bring out textures and shadows.

Project Ideas for DIY Metal Clay

Here are a few creative starter projects:

  • Name pendants – Stamp children’s or grandchildren’s names into small silver bars.

  • Nature impressions – Press real leaves, flowers, or lace into clay for organic textures.

  • Fingerprint charms – Perfect keepsakes for new parents or grandparents.

  • Beads and buttons – Shape little rounds for custom jewelry or sewing projects.

  • Earring drops – Roll thin sheets and cut with mini cookie cutters.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

  • Cracking while drying: Clay too dry. Add more water and knead again.

  • Warping: Clay dried unevenly. Always dry pieces flat on a non-stick surface.

  • Weak after firing: Not enough binder or under-fired. Increase temperature slightly next time.

  • Excessive shrinkage: Too much binder or too little powder. Stick to the 90/10 ratio.

Safety Tips for DIY Metal Clay

  • Always wear a dust mask when handling powders.

  • Work in a well-ventilated space.

  • Don’t use kitchen tools for food after mixing clay. Keep them separate.

  • Let fired pieces cool completely before handling.

Where to Buy Supplies

  • Online jewelry suppliers (look for “fine silver powder” or “325 mesh copper powder”).

  • Pottery and ceramic shops (for binders and carbon).

  • Craft stores (some carry small packs of CMC powder).

Making your own silver or copper clay at home is part science experiment, part craft therapy. It saves money, gives you full control over your materials, and opens up a whole new world of jewelry making. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll find yourself experimenting with textures, firing techniques, and even combining metals for unique results.

Metal clay is one of those crafts that bridges the gap between ancient tradition and modern DIY. So grab your powders, roll up your sleeves, and let a little alchemy happen right at your kitchen table.