Polymer Clay

Fimo and clay tips and tutorials

Cernit, have you tried it?

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Back when I heard of it last year I immediately wanted to try it. Then I heard the name again when someone was describing the feel of the Studio by Sculpey clay.(Of course you know I heard of it in a forum somewhere) Back to the subject, I bought a pack of it with another order because I wanted to try it. Well, I’ll let you be the judge, after I tell you that it was soft enough out of the pack to condition by hand, really, by HAND ! But the thing it, it wasn’t the sticky, smooshy, doughy, clay we normally put up with. Wait!! That’s not the best part, the BLACK has some kind of mica or really fine glitter, either way I LOVE it. I don’t know if the other colors have it or not, but I plan on finding out 🙂 } Dare I say it ?} It makes me want to give up my Kato !!!!!??????!!!!! Oh no, where’s my couch. I feel faint! Oh, the funny thing is, I have even tried the Studio by Sculpey clay, yet 🙂 Click on the pictures to see them a little better.   

Do a quick GOOGLE on Cernit, a lot of vendors carry it. Here’s a blurb from one vendor

Cernit Polymer clay is soft and easy to work, right out of the package. No other material will give you the translucence you get with Cernit no. 1 and its tensile strength lets you work with the thinnest imaginable pieces. Cernit no. 1 cures to a porcelain-like finish while Cernit Neon-Light is luminescent in bright, day-glo colors and Cernit Glamour colors are pearlescents. Many shades of color available and all able to be mixed to create still other tones.

I will tell you this, it seems to me that the prices are a little higher than the other clays, but, you get what you pay for, as my granny used to say.

http://www.gigagraphica.com/poly/polyclay.html – This is a website that has some more info on it

See ya’ll next time 🙂

Comments

  1. Cernit was probably the third clay brand I worked with and it spoiled me rotten, lol. Like most people probably did, I started with Sculpey III and quickly moved on to Fimo and then Fimo soft. Once I moved to try Cernit however, I never moved on. I suppose I really need to try Kato and the Studio clay but my hands love the feel of Cernit too much. I will say that the standard colors do tend to darken A LOT once baked so most all of those get mixed with white (buy the big block of white, you’ll need it) but other than that I have zero complaints about this polyclay brand. BTW, I also adore the porcelain-like finish. 😀

  2. really? I have a box of cernit and to me its REALLY hard to mold. maybe it’d a different version or something but it hurts my hand and I have a really different opinion!

  3. Hey Sophia! That post is from a few years ago by a previous blogger. I’m with you, I found Cernit to be harder to work with than Premo. I suppose it’s just a matter of what you’re used to!

  4. Cernit cures hard, but still pretty flexible like fimo classic and kato. Cernit is great for thinner more delicate pieces. l tried the translucent, which is like super slimy . l leached it and it has messed up the consistency of the clay so l won’t be doing that again.
    l have another block in blue and that was so easy to condition, shape and use. Like premo l get hairline cracks more easily when curing in beads so for me right now cernit is a mixed bag. The color seriously darkens after curing so that made me a bit anxious about buying more it.

  5. I usually buy Cernit, the only fail is how hard it is, usually red is very hard and black is impossible… i havent come across very gewy squishy sticky ones, i like Fimo but the transparent ones are a bit too soft.

  6. It is an excellent clay for miniatures. I have sculpted some small busts having hights of approx. 2 inches. It keeps even the smallest details (eyes, ears, lips, hair, wrinkles etc.) and you can cut very easily when you have to adjust the face of your bust. I worked for some complicated busts and some times I had to work two weeks for a project and it kept the same quality. One thing very important! I have an improvized oven made by me on my gas burner. This clay is excelent after it is baked. It is shiny a little bit. It seems to have some life inside. Follow the instructions and you will have an excellent bust. I prefer this clay.

  7. I find Cernit to be really hard to work with.
    It takes a long time to condition, and then when you try to roll it it’s still very hard, and it get’s crumbly. I absolutely cannot handle the crumbleness! It just rips apart no matter how many times I tried to. Since it’s so rough, imperfections are hard to smooth out.
    The good side is, that it doesn’t leave fingerprints.
    Overall : I would not recommend Cernit to anyone. I bought 10 packs and now I just don’t know how to get rid of them.

  8. Hi Laura!

    This post was from a little bit ago – I haven’t had the chance to really play with Cernit but I found the same as you: that it was difficult to condition. And I have an easily available difficult to condition clay already!

Have you read?

Air-Dry Clay Sunflower Trinket Dish Tutorial

There’s something about sunflowers that just makes a house feel happier. Maybe it’s the colour, maybe it’s the fact they’re never trying to be perfect, or maybe it’s just that they remind me of slower afternoons when the kids were little and craft projects actually stayed on the table instead of migrating all over the house. Either way, this air-dry clay sunflower trinket dish has become one of my favourite “gentle crafts” – the kind you make with a cup of tea nearby and no pressure to rush.

This is not a precision project. In fact, the slightly uneven petals and hand-shaped edges are what make it lovely. If you’ve ever avoided clay because you thought it had to look professional or kiln-fired to be worth making, this project might just change your mind. It’s simple, forgiving, and genuinely useful once it’s finished.

Air-Dry Clay Sunflower Trinket Dish Tutorial

This sunflower bowl works beautifully as a ring dish, bedside catch-all, or even a small decorative bowl on a hall table. It also makes a gorgeous handmade gift – especially for someone who appreciates things that look handmade rather than factory-perfect.

What You’ll Need

  • White air-dry clay

  • Rolling pin or glass jar

  • Craft knife or butter knife

  • Simple sunflower petal template (paper)

  • Small bowl (for shaping)

  • Toothpick or skewer

  • Acrylic paints (yellow, brown, a little white)

  • Small paintbrush

  • Clear matte or satin sealer (optional)

Step 1: Prepare the Clay

Start by kneading your air-dry clay until it’s soft and pliable. Roll it out on a smooth surface to around 5–6 mm thick. You want it thick enough to hold its shape, but not chunky.

Cut a rough circle for the base of your bowl. Don’t worry about perfect edges – you won’t see them once the petals are added.

Step 2: Cut the Sunflower Petals

Using your simple sunflower petal template, cut out enough petals to go around the edge of your base circle. Slight variations actually help the finished bowl look more natural, so don’t stress if they’re not identical.

Lightly smooth the edges with your fingers and gently pinch the tip of each petal to give it that sunflower shape.

Step 3: Attach the Petals

Lightly score the edge of your clay base and the bottom of each petal with a toothpick. Press the petals around the edge, overlapping them slightly. Use your fingers to blend the joins so everything feels connected.

This part is quite therapeutic – I usually lose track of time here.

Step 4: Add Texture

Using a toothpick or skewer, gently press fine lines into each petal to create natural-looking veins. Keep the pressure light and irregular.

For the centre of the sunflower, press small dots all over the middle area to mimic sunflower seeds. This texture really comes to life once painted.

Step 5: Shape the Bowl

Place the entire sunflower over an upside-down bowl to give it a gentle curve. Adjust the petals so they sit naturally and don’t fold in awkwardly.

Leave it to air-dry completely. This usually takes 24–48 hours depending on humidity. Turn it carefully halfway through drying so the base dries evenly.

Step 6: Paint the Sunflower

Once fully dry, paint the petals with yellow acrylic paint. I like to add a touch of white to the edges for highlights and a slightly darker yellow near the base of each petal.

Paint the centre brown, then dry-brush a little lighter brown or white over the top to bring out the texture.

Let the paint dry thoroughly.

Step 7: Seal (Optional)

If you want a bit of extra durability, seal your trinket dish with a matte or satin sealer. This is especially useful if it’s going to live near a sink or get daily use.

How to Use Your Sunflower Trinket Dish

  • Ring or jewellery dish by the sink

  • Bedside bowl for earrings and hairpins

  • Entryway catch-all for keys

  • Decorative piece on a shelf or coffee table

Air-dry clay isn’t food-safe, so keep it for trinkets rather than snacks.

This is one of those crafts that looks impressive but doesn’t require special tools, expensive materials, or artistic confidence. It’s approachable, calming, and genuinely satisfying to finish in an afternoon. The end result feels personal and warm – exactly the kind of craft I keep coming back to.

If you’re looking for an easy air-dry clay project that feels cheerful and handmade in the best way, this sunflower trinket dish is a lovely place to start.