Bright Lime Green – 12 parts yellow, 1 part green
Olive-Lime Green – 12 parts yellow, 1 part green, a bit of black
Sage – 2 parts green, 1 part turquoise, a bit of black
Dark Turquoise – 2 parts green, 1 part turquoise
Hunter Green – 1 part yellow 1 part black, 4 parts green
Olive Green – 6 parts yellow, 1 part black
Medium Turquoise – 1 part green, 1 part turquoise, 1 part white
Grass Green – 3 parts yellow, 1 part turquoise, 1 part green
Light Grass Green – 3 parts yellow, 1 part turquoise, 1 part green, 1 part white
Ecru (Premo) – blend 4 parts Kato White Polyclay with 2 parts Kato Brown Polyclay and 1 1/2 parts Kato Yellow Polyclay
Purple (Premo) – blend 4 parts Kato Violet Polyclay with 1/4 part Kato Red Polyclay
Orange (Premo) – blend 2 1/2 parts Kato Yellow Polyclay and 1 part Kato Orange Polyclay
Cadmium Red (Premo) – blend 2 parts Kato Red Polyclay and 1 part Kato Orange Polyclay
Ultramarine Blue (Premo) – blend 1 part Kato Ultra Blue Polyclay and 1 part Kato Violet Polyclay
Burnt Umber (Premo) – blend 4 parts Kato Brown Polyclay, 1 part Kato Red Polyclay and 1/2 part Kato Black Polyclay
Cobalt Blue (Premo) – blend 4 parts Kato Ultra Blue Polyclay and 1/2 part Kato White Polyclay
Sea Green (Premo) – blend 3 parts Kato Green Polyclay and 1 part Kato Blue Polyclay
Turquoise (Premo) – blend 2 parts Kato Turquoise Polyclay, 1/2 part Kato White Polyclay and 1/2 part Kato Green Polyclay
Sap Green (Premo) – blend 2 parts Kato Translucent, 1 1/2 parts Kato Green, 1 1/4 parts Kato Yellow and 1/4 part Kato Black Polyclay.
Green (Sculpey III) – blend 1 part Kato Blue, 2 1/8 parts Kato Green and 1/8 part Kato Black. (Thanks to Sheila Keay for this recipe)
Navy Blue (Sculpey III) – blend 2 parts Kato Ultra Blue Polyclay, 1/2 part Kato Black Polyclay and 1 part Kato Violet Polyclay
Terra Cotta (Sculpey III) – blend 3 parts Kato Brown Polyclay and 1 part Kato Red Polyclay
Teal (Sculpey III) – blend 5 parts Kato Turquoise Polyclay, 1/2 part Kato Black Polyclay and 1/4 part Kato Violet Polyclay
Mint (Sculpey III) – blend 2 parts Kato White Polyclay, 1 part Kato Green Polyclay and 1/2 part Kato Turquoise Polyclay
Cherry Red (Fimo) – blend 2 parts Kato Magenta Polyclay and 1 part Kato Red Polyclay
Caramel (Fimo) – blend 2 parts Kato Brown Polyclay and 1/2 part Kato Yellow Polyclay
Mandarin (Fimo) – blend 3 parts Kato Yellow Polyclay and 1 part Kato Orange Polyclay
A gentle golden yellow – 1 part Kato Pearl Polyclay, 1/2 part Kato Yellow Polyclay, very small amount each of Kato Magenta and Gold Polyclays. The resulting blend produces a soft but distinct mica shift effect.
Recipes for Kato Color Concentrates
For dark colors such as Alizarin Crimson, a good starting point would be:
5 parts Kato Transclucent
1 part Concentrated Red
Small pinch Concentrated Blue
For a Navy color:
5 parts Kato Translucent
1 part Concentrated Blue
1/4 part Concentrated Red
1/4 part Concentrated Yellow
Pastel colors can be created by mixing a small amount of the Concentrated color into Kato White. You can create your own deep metallic colors by using a 50/50 mixture of a current Kato metallic color and Kato Translucent, then mix in a small amount of Kato Color Concentrate.
Because these colors have increased amounts of colored pigments, the possibility of hand staining increases. You may consider wearing protective gloves when mixing colors by hand
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Silver Kato mixed 2-1 with any Kato color is cool.
A good rich purple is 3 Kato fushia to 1 turquoise.
2 yellow to 4 ultra blue makes a pretty dark teal.
4 turquoise to 2 yellow is a good light teal.
4 fushia, 1 turquoise and 1 white is a nice lighter purple.
4 ultra blue, 2 yellow and 1 white is a good blue-green.
1 red to 1 purple is brick red.
2 red to 1 white is coral ?